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Water Garden Guide


Water gardening is one of the fastest growing segments of the gardening industry. This isn't surprising given the way water adds so much character to the garden through sound, movement and reflection. Even when a ponds surface is frozen it creates contrast in the garden. By adding a waterfall, watercourse, or fountain the effects can be multiplied many times. A pond also allows you to grow many plants that, otherwise, would not grow in the normal garden, thus opening up a whole new world to the gardener.

When deciding what type of pond and features to install, bear in mind the size and style of the surrounding landscape. If it is large and informal, a meandering watercourse may be suitable, while in a smaller enclosed yard, a raised formal pool may be more in line. At Cayuga Landscape we can help you decide what is going to work best for you. Many of our staff members have an intense interest in water gardening, have attended water gardening courses and have gained practical hands-on experience installing and caring for our own ponds.

When siting a pond its best to consider all the major points from which it will be viewed, like the patio or living room window. Considering the reflective quality of water, you may want it to mirror an eye catching feature in the landscape. An open, sunny position, away from buildings and overhanging trees, will turn out to be best for minimizing maintenance and maximizing plant growth. If planning a pond on land prone to flooding, check that there is no danger of fertilizer or pesticide run-off from a vegetable garden or nearby farmland. Try to avoid siting a pond in a frost pocket or an extremely exposed location as this can limit the variety of plants that can be overwintered.

Installing your own pond can seem like a daunting task but the fact is, you only have to follow a few important rules, and add your own creativity. Anything you can imagine, you can most likely do. A pond will be a theraputic addition to your landscape that will pay for itself many times over in enjoyment.

Preformed Pond Installation Lotus
Flexible Liner Installation Surface Plants
Pumps & Filtration Bog Plants
Preformed Liner Submerged Plants
Flexible Liner Floating Plants
Fish Product Price List
Waterlilies  

 

 

 





Building your pond: a step by step guide
First choose your pond type:
Would you like a preformed design or a flexible liner?


How to install a preformed pond: (Click here for Diagram)

  1. Select a site and dig a hole roughly in the shape of the pond. The easiest method is to trace its shape on level ground with spray paint, string and stakes, or the garden hose.
  2. Excavate hole 2" deeper than the pond form to allow room for sand. Be sure to follow the form of the shelves and base precisely.
  3. Before installing the pond, check that the hole is deep enough. Lay a board across the pond hole and measure the depth.
  4. Remove any roots or sharp stones and add a 2" layer of sand to the bottom of the hole. Now place the pond liner in the site and check that it is completely level. If level, proceed to the next step. If not, adjust accordingly.
  5. Begin to fill the pond with water as you backfill around the form with sand or screened topsoil. Tamp the new soil in firmly. We also recommend adding stones or gravel to the pond bottom to help protect against harmful UV rays and to act as surface area for beneficial bacteria.
  6. Add a filter & pump as you finish filling the pond with water. Extras such as special pond lightening can also be installed. Cayuga Landscape carries all the filters, pumps, lights, and other accessories that you'll need as well as a wide assortment of water plants, bog plants, perennials and annuals to suite every gardeners taste! Any plants can be added immediately. We recommend that you wait at least a week before fish are added. This allows any Chlorine in the water to evaporate off and the beneficial bacteria to build up. Without this balance of good bacteria, the waste products produced by fish can reach lethal levels quickly.
  7. Finally the most critical step: Enjoy your new pond!
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How to install a flexible liner: (Click here for Diagram)

  1. Mark the outline with a garden hose, spray paint, or a rope and stakes.
  2. Calculate the size of the liner needed. (To do this, add twice the pond depth to the length and the width, then add another 2" minimum.) Underlayment is recommended for most liner installations. The liner manufacturer will indicate which liners need this protective layer between the liner and certain types of soil. You can use the pond manufacturer's underlayment or simply use some inexpensive fiberglass insulation. Personally, I prefer the latter option.
  3. Remove sod, then dig out shelves. Most ponds are designed with shelves 9-12" below the water level to hold plants and the bottom level 18" or deeper.
  4. Dig the deep area of your pond. Pond sides should slope in about 20 degrees from vertical.
  5. Prepare the hole for the liner by removing stones or roots and by adding 2-3" of sand to the bottom of the hole. Use a board and spirit level to make sure the hole is level! If recommended, add fabric underlayment or fiberglass insulation at this point.
  6. Install the liner. Carefully place the liner in hole. Weight down the edges of the liner with a few flat stones or bricks. If a waterfall is part of your design, lay the liner along the full path of the waterfall, overlapping the pond liner.
  7. While adding water, tug at the liner to eliminate creases. Weight down the edges with paving slabs or stones and/or secure the edges with long nails or landscape staples. We also recommend adding stones or gravel to pond bottom to help protect from UV light, provide a more naturalistic look and add surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow on.
  8. Finish the final touches on your waterfall and add the pump and filter as well as any special touches like underwater lighting or fountains . Cayuga Landscape carries all the filters, pumps, lights, and other accessories that you'll need as well as a wide assortment of water plants, bog plants, perennials and annuals to suite every gardeners taste!
  9. Remember the most important step: Enjoy your new pond!
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Pumps & Filtration

Keeping a pond clear without the use of a pump and filter is difficult and time consuming, but it is possible by keeping the pond clean, limiting the number of fish, adding beneficial bacteria and keeping a healthy supply of submerged plants. A pump and filter, however, make this job easier and provide a means for a waterfall or fountain, thereby creating the relaxing sound of water in motion.

Most pumps used today are submersible and sit at the bottom of the pond, raised slightly on some bricks. Pump size is generally calculated based on the gallons per hour output at one foot of height. Most pumps come with a chart that shows the gph at additional height increments. The length of hose also is important, as every 10' of horizontal length will add enough resistance to decrease the pump output by one foot of lift.

To choose a pump you will need to know some of the parameters of your pond project. Will there be a waterfall or fountain? What is the total volume in gallons? What is your filters maximum recommended gph? Waterfalls require the most water flow. To be visually effective, 100 gph of water per inch of waterfall width is needed. A waterfall twelve inches wide needs 1200 gph of water flow per hour. More is okay, but less will diminish the falls effect. Volume is more desirable than pressure in disguising the flow of water into the top spillway. Adapt to larger tubing than the actual outlet size to eliminate pressure while maintaining volume

Filters are used to remove suspended particles and other pollutants from the water. They can do this by mechanically removing these particles or by biologically clarifying the water with beneficial bacteria colonies. A mechanical filter is attached to the intake of a pump and is submerged in the pond. The filtration media is fine-pore polyester that traps the particle until it is removed and rinsed away. The biological filter uses the same material but is located outside of the pond on the outlet side of the pump. The water flows through this material and then through another substrate (usually small plastic balls), where bacteria grow and help to clarify the water. They do this by changing organic wastes and ammonia into nitrite and then into nitrates. Since the bacteria need moving water and oxygen to survive, it is necessary to keep the water flowing with a pump. Ideally a biological filter would be pre-filtered with a mechanical filter or a skimmer to keep the media as clean as possible to maintain peak efficiency.

When purchasing a filter it helps to know your pond volume. Measure the pond length, width and average depth in feet. Multiply the three numbers to obtain the cubic volume of the water. Multiply this number by 7.5 to get the total number of gallons of water. If the surface of the pond is irregular try to estimate the actual square footage as close as possible before multiplying with the depth. Average length (ft.) x avg. width (ft.) x avg. depth (ft.) x 7.5 = gallons of water.

At Cayuga Landscape we carry many different size pumps and biofilters as well as all the tubing needed to connect them. We also have a wide variety of fountains. We can advise you on how to put these components together. We also carry beneficial bacteria to help start your pond or give it a boost.

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Preformed Liner

Preformed ponds are usually made of strong plastic like ABS, HDP high density polythene, or fiberglass. Some can be quite large, up to 12 feet across, but most are smaller, usually around 3-6 feet across. It is very important with small preformed ponds to keep the number of fish lower than the normally recommended maximum stocking rate. Plastic compositions cost less than fiberglass but will not last as long. You also need to consider the strength of the top edge of the form, since heavy rocks are usually used as an edging. Preformed ponds are available in a variety of standard forms. Many offer planting shelves. In selecting one of these ponds, be certain the shelf is wide enough for a potted plant. With some brands, the shelves are actually to narrow to be of much use. We carry several shapes, and can special order from a larger selection. Our liners are a heavy duty ABS.

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Flexible Liner

The development of stronger, longer lasting flexible liners has revolutionized water gardening. Thin plastic sheeting, swimming pool liner and even some of the heavier grades of plastic lining puncture easily and degrade quickly. Butyl was at one time the liner material of choice, being durable, flexible and stable, but was quite expensive. With the development of a less expensive synthetic rubber sheeting called EPDM, (ethylene propylene diene monmer) which offers a 50 year life expectancy and all the good qualities of Butyl, the water garden enthusiast's work was made easier, more rewarding, and more affordable

EPDM liner is usually available in 45 and 60 mil. Most residential ponds can be effectively lined with 45 mil material which is the least expensive and most flexible of the different thicknesses. The 60 mil material is recommended for ponds larger than 10,000 square feet since it is easier to patch together and offers nearly double the strength of the 45 mil for a relatively small increase in cost and little loss of flexibility. Holes in EPDM rubber can be permanently patched with self-adhesive patch tapes. We carry several precut 45 mil liners as well as 20' sections at any length you choose.

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Fish

Stock a new water garden at the rate of one inch of fish per every 8 gallons of water, waiting 3-4 weeks after introducing plants. This allows beneficial bacteria to populate the pond. This initial stocking rate allows room for growth and reproduction. Declorinate your pond when your pond is filled, and always treat the pond immediately prior to introducing fish. The protectants in dechlorinators help eliminate transport stress.

We carry both Koi and Shubunkin. The are priced at $6 for a fish under 3", and $9 for a fish 3" or larger. Most of our fish are between 2" and 4".

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Water Plant List
(please call for availability & prices)

In this gardener's opinion the most fun, is the planting! There are tons of different kinds of plants for each garden... Full Sun or Shade, floating plants, bog plants, tropicals, perennials with extravagant flowers, with funky foliage, ones that like turbulent waterfalls and others that like peaceful waters... in other words there are plants that will thrive in every pond - including yours!

Water plants are also an important part of your ponds ecosystem. They help shade the pond, thereby reducing algal blooms, provide oxygen for fish and beneficial bacteria, attract aquatic wildlife, and enhance the ponds visual appeal.

Waterlilies

Waterlilies help the pond by shading the water from the sun. Algae loves sunlight and has a harder time growing if the ponds surface is partially covered by lily pads. Waterlilies begin sending up their first floating leaves in late April. The first ones may be smaller or darker in color than later ones. Each leaf lives three to four weeks then turns yellow and dies. Remove these yellowing leaves to encourage new growth.

In late May the first flowers reach the surface, opening and closing daily for four days apiece. As a flower fades it sinks into the pond and should be removed to encourage more flowers to form. Hardy waterlillies will flower through September.

Position the lily so that it receives at least five or more hours of direct sunlight. The afternoon sun is best. Some varieties will flower at a reduced rate in less sunlight. More sun will lead to more flowers.

Good quality topsoil is used as the growing medium. Clay-loam soil from a vegetable garden or lawn is often used. You should not use bagged soil unless it is specifically labeled for aquatic plants. Lightweight soil amendments should also be avoided because they will float to the surface and make a mess. Cover the soil with fine gravel to keep it in, and any fish out.

Use a planting container that is as large as your pond can accommodate. A larger area for root development will lead to larger flowers and leaves. Pots wider than deep are better. Place the pot at the bottom of the pond up to three feet deep, allowing a minimum of 10" of water over the soil surface. Some smaller varieties should not be placed deeper than 18". Be sure the roots are below the freeze line in the winter.

When planting, the rhizome is positioned so that the cut end is against the side of the pot, not in the center. The root will then have plenty of room to spread across the pot. Regular fertilization will keep your water lily blooming and growing well. Fertilizer tablets should be pushed into the soil at planting time and then occasionally throughout the season.

Make sure to locate the lily in the pond where it won't be disturbed by the splashing of a waterfall or fountain. Water splashing on top of the leaves will discolor and eventually kill them.

Nymphaea spp. (Hardy Perennial Water Lilies)
Red Lilies:
Attraction, Charles De Meurville, Ellisiana, Escarboucle, Froebeli, James Brydon, Laydekeri fulgens, Maurice Laydeker, Perry's Baby Red, Rembrandt, Sirius,Vesuve
Pink Lilies:
Arc-en-ciel, Cathy, Fabiola, Gloire du Temple sur Lot, Hollandia, Joanne Pring, Marliac Carnea, Masaniello, Mayla, Pink Sensation
White Lilies:
Albatross, Gladstone, Queen of Whites, Virginalis, Virginia, Walter Pagels
Yellow Lilies:
Charlene Strawn, Chromatella, Gold Medal, Helvola, Jeoy Tomocik, Texas Dawn
Changeable and Orange Lilies:
Comanche, Graziella, Indiana, Pink Grapefruit, Sioux

Nymphaea spp. (Tropical Water Lilies)

Annual water lilies add pleasant fragrance and intense colors not found in any hardy lily. These special plants also have an attractive mottled foliage to add extra interest to your pond. Since tropical lilies are separated into day and night blooming varieties, one of each type will extend the beauty around the clock! Once the water temperature consistently reaches 70 degrees, they can be planted and will bloom the entire summer!

Day Blooming Varieties:
Autumn Shade, Pale Blue, Medium Blue, Lavender, Pink, Purple, Red, White, Yellow
Night Blooming Varieties:
Pink, Pale Pink, Red, White

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Lotus

There are few plants more exotic that Lotus with their captivating flowers, culinary delicacies, and unusual accents in dried flower arrangements. The huge rounded leaves stand proudly above the water's surface providing a coarse texture to compliment any landscape. The flowers are dramatic with unsurpassable beauty and bloom July through August! Fertilize regularly for maximum growth and flowering. To increase their blooms, remember to remove the spent leaves and flowers. Since hardy Lotus can be invasive in soil bottom ponds, be sure to keep them restrained in pots. Lotus are also excellent candidates for container water gardens.

The miniature lotus are similar to their big brothers in most requirements except that they are, of course, miniatures. Unlike regular sized plants, the miniature bowl lotus, prefer shallow water or simply wet ground. Since the smaller plants are hardy only to zone 6, they will need to be sunk to the deepest part of the pond to help them along in the winter.

Nelumbo nucifera (Hardy Lotus)
Alba, Baby Doll, Ben Gibson, Chawan Basu, Empress, Momo Botan, Mrs. Perry D. Slocum, Pekinensis Rubra, Perry's Giant Sunburst, Rosea Plena, Shiroman, Speciosum, The President
Nelumbo nucifera (Miniature Hardy Lotus, Bowl Lotus)
Red Baby, Xiamen Bowl

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Surface Plants

Covering a ponds surface will cool water and provide shade thereby limiting the ability of algae to grow. These plants will carpet the surface of the water and provide much needed shade. Some have leaves that float on the surface and others have foliage that emerges from the water. These plants add texture to the pond surface and provide a break from lilypads. They may also become invasive if they come in contact with soil.

Botanical Name Common Name
Menyanthes trifoliata Bog Bean
Ludwigia peploides Improved Primrose Creeper
Aponogeton distachyus Water Hawthorne
Nymphoides cristata Water Snowflake
Nymphoides geminata Yellow Snowflake
Nasturtium officinale Water Cress

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Bog Plants

Bog plants are sometimes referred to as marginals or shallow water plants. They provide vertical accent and texture contrast to the pond. On the edge of the pond they can hide liner, tubing or a power cord. Some are grown only for their foliage while others have beautiful flowers at different times of the season. When planted in a container their size and spread can be contained, while they can be invasive when planted in the soil. Bog plants require fertilizer 2-3 times per year.

Plant in as large a container as possible to allow the plants plenty of room to spread and bloom freely. Some plants have spreading root systems that need adequate surface area but not much soil depth. Others have a dense clumping habit that may require less surface area.

They should be planted shallow in a high quality topsoil. Gently compress the soil into place to anchor the plant. Leave about a half-inch of space at the top to add a layer of gravel.

Different species prefer different depths but in general they should be placed between 4" and15" deep on a shelf of the pond or in their own boggy offshoot of the pond.

(*) indicates that the species has marginal cold hardiness. These plants need to be sunk at the bottom of the pond each winter to increase their chances of over-wintering.

Botanical Name Common Name
Mentha aquatica Aquatic Mint
Sagittaria latifolia Arrowhead
Sagittaria japonica flore-plena Double Flowering Japanese Arrowhead
Sagittaria australis Arrowhead 'Silk Stockings'
Dulichium arundinaceum Dwarf Bamboo
Scirpus tabernaemontani albescens White Bulrush
Scirpus tabernaemontani Zebra Bulrush
Ranunculus repens Buttercup 'Buttered Popcorn'
Phragmites "Candy Stripe" Candy Stripe Reed
Lobelia cardinalis Cardinal Flower
Typha minima Miniature Cattail
Typha angustifolia Narrowleaf Cattail
Typha japonica variegata Variegated Cattail
Butomus umbellatus Flowering Rush
Myosotis scorpoides Forget-Me-Not
*Orontium aquaticum Golden Club
*Eleocharis acicularis Hair Grass
Thalia dealbata Hardy Thalia
Equisetum hyemale Horsetail
Equisetum scirpoides Miniature Horsetail
Saururus cernuus Lizard's Tail
*Glyceria specabilis variegata Variegated Manna Grass
Stachys palustris Marsh Betony
Caltha palustris Marsh Marigold
Mazus repens Creeping Mazus
Mimulus ringens Monkey Flower
Ludwigia arcuata Needle-leaf Ludwigia
Hydrocotyle verticillata Penny Wort
Hydrocotyle sibthorpoidies Crystal Confetti Penny Wort
Pontederia cordata Purple Pickerel Rush
Sagittaria spp. Sagittaria
Sagittaria graminea Crushed Ice Sagittaria
Ramunclus flammula Miniature Spearwort
Eleocharis montevidensis Spike Rush
Acorus calmus variegata Variegated Sweetflag
Peltandra virginica Water Arum
Eleocharis dulcis Water Chestnut
*Zizania latifolia Wild Rice
Marsilea schelpiana Ruffled Water Clover
Marsilea drummondi Water Clover
Ranunculus aquatilis Water Crowfoot
Iris versicolor Blue Flag Water Iris
Iris laevigata Water Iris
Iris laevigata variegata Variegated Water Iris
Iris pseudacorus Yellow Flag Water Iris
Iris pseudacorus flore-plena Double Yellow Flag Water Iris
Iris pseudacorus variegata Variegated Yellow Flag Water Iris
   
Annual Bog Plants:  
Nymphoides peltata Floating Heart
Myriophyllum aquatica Parrot's Feather
Myriophyllum properpinacoides Miniature Parrot's Feather
Marsilea mutica Variegated Water Clover
Sagittaria montevidensis Aztec Arrowhead
Crinum americanum Bog Lily
Canna spp. Canna
Echinodorus cordifolius Marble Queen Echinodorus
Ludwigia setoides Mosaic Plant
Cyperus haspens Dwarf Papyrus
Cyperus papyrus Egyptian Papyrus
Thalia geniculata Red Stemmed Thalia
Hymencallis liriosome Spider Lily
Colocasia spp. Black Magic Taro
Colocasia esculenta Green Taro
Colocasia antiquorum Imperial Taro
Cyperus alternifolius Umbrella Palm
Cyperus alternifolius gracilis Dwarf Umbrella Palm
Hydrocleys nymphoides Water Poppy

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Submerged Plants

These plants are essential to good water quality and provide shelter and shade for fish. Their natural filtration capabilities help keep the water garden clear. They should be planted in pots in gravel, to encourage them to absorb nutrients from the water. Plant several bunches per pot and completely submerge to the bottom of the pond.

Botanical Name Common Name
Myriophyllum ----
Anacharis ----
Cabomba ----

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Floating Plants

Planting is simple with floating plants, just toss them in and let them go their own direction. Buoyant leaves keep these plants afloat, making them great natural spawning areas and hiding places for fish. They also enhance the water quality while their roots dangle in the water readily absorbing organic pollutants, and they provide shade to help limit the growth of algae.

Botanical Name Common Name
Pistia stratoides Water Lettuce
Eichornia crassipes Water Hyacinth

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Water Garden Products and Price List:
(please note: prices are subject to change without notice)

Pond Liner

Pre-formed Ponds: Other Water Gardens: Pumps: Filters: Fountains: Fertilizers: Maintenance Products: Misc.: Return to Top


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